Introduction:
In the ever-evolving world of outdoor apparel, advancements in fabric technology continually push the boundaries of performance and comfort. One such innovation that has captivated outdoor enthusiasts is Polartec Alpha Direct fabric.
Alpha Direct was originally created for the military to keep troops warm without overheating while marching with heavy gear in cold weather. It is considered an "active insulation" that provides outstanding performance when the wearer is exerting themselves.
From its inception to its current, rather unexpected applications let's delve into the intricacies of Polartec Alpha Direct.
Polartec Alpha
In 2012, Polartec partnered with U.S. Special Forces to create an insulation that would be highly breathable as well as warm fast-drying, and ultralight. It was intended to be sandwiched between a breathable outer shell, and a lining.
However, all good things developed for the military trickle down to the gear junkies who want to use the technology for their own use, especially those who appreciate highly functional garments. Alpha was being used by many to make stand-alone garments. But, it lacked durability without a lining.
Alpha Direct
About 5 years after Polartec Alpha was developed, Polartec introduced Alpha Direct.
The primary goal was to develop a fabric that could provide insulation directly to the wearer, eliminating the need for additional lining fabrics. Hence the name Alpha "Direct". This streamlined approach not only reduced weight but also enhanced breathability, allowing moisture vapor to escape more efficiently. Through extensive research and testing, Polartec succeeded in creating Alpha Direct, a breakthrough in insulation technology.
While its main market was still insulation, brands such as Rab starting marketing a stand-alone jacket that showcased the ultralite features of Alpha Direct. Some of their designs, suchas the Rab Alpha Freak utilized both Alpha Direct and Polartec Power Grid. (A personal favorite mix, because the Power Grid adds the stretch that Alpha Direct lacks, for more fitted designs).
Enter the MYOG (Make Your Own Gear) and sewing world! While the fabric was not easy to source, several cottage brands as well as DIY'ers started making hoodies, hats, jackets and camp pants from Alpha Direct. And a Star was Born!
Picture shown is Hunter with his mom Jackie. Both work at Discovery Fabrics. Hunter sewed both his own hoodie, as well as the jacket Jackie is wearing. Note that the jacket combines both Alpha Direct and Polartec Power Grid, for added ease of movement.
At the heart of Polartec Alpha Direct lies its unique construction. Unlike traditional insulating materials, Alpha Direct features a lofted knit structure that traps warmth while maintaining exceptional breathability.
This innovative design allows air to circulate freely, regulating body temperature and preventing overheating during intense activities.
Despite its lightweight composition, Alpha Direct boasts impressive warmth-to-weight ratio, making it ideal for a wide range of outdoor pursuits. Whether hiking, skiing, climbing, or simply walking the dog, garments crafted from Alpha Direct offer unparalleled comfort and versatility.
Moreover, Alpha Direct fabric dries quickly, ensuring that users stay warm and dry even in damp conditions. This moisture management capability is especially valuable for high-intensity activities where sweat can accumulate rapidly.
The open knit of Alpha Direct does not repel the wind in any way! Often it is worn alone but for any wind or rain protection, it must be partnered with a technical shell such as Polartec Neoshell.
As this blog is being written, there are literally dozens of styles of both Alpha and Alpha Direct Polartec produces. We will never be able to keep it current as they sell out often as quickly as they arrive. For your convenience, we list all the weights and specs of fabrics on our website, for styles that are in stock. So if you need to know GSM (grams per square meter) you can check the pages Polartec Alpha and Polartec Alpha Direct.
Some of the Alpha Styles we have seen or have in stock:
Style 4404 125 GSM
Style 4408 100 GSM
Style 4409 61 GSM
Style 9717 (quilted style with water repellent face) 139 GSM
The quilted style was a military run, we have never seen it anywhere else. Even though it is not Alpha Direct, we've made some pretty cool vests with it that are holding up well.
The most common weights of Alpha Direct are
NOTE: Alpha and Alpha Direct styles are an approximation that Polartec provides, and are not 100% accurate for every roll. We do find slight variances within these styles.
Some of the cottage-industry manufacturers advertise their finished Alpha Direct jackets and hoodies at about 5-6 ounces, or 140-170 grams. But I'm guessing this is a 90 GSM style. I personally have made a 60 GSM hoodie in a Men's medium size that weights about 110 GSM.
Bottom line: it's subjective, as it would depend on the pattern used, the size of the garment, and the style of Alpha Direct chosen.
We believe there is a "sweet spot" of warmth to weight ratio, with the 60 GSM being our top choice. It is ridiculously light, and I love it for an extra layer when I'm packing for a trip because it compresses so well, but is just what is needed on a cool day. I also find that making a double layer (or reversible) hoodie from 60 is almost a magical formula. It gives even more warmth than one layer of 120 GSM, while weighing roughly the same.
To be honest, it can be difficult to tell.
On some styles, particularly the lightest ones, both sides seem pretty similar. On other heavier styles of Alpha Direct there is a side that just looks nicer.
First you need to understand that Alpha Direct was created to be a lining for a breathable shell such as Neoshell or Power Shield Pro. Imagine a typical printed lining for a suit…let’s say it has a design with stripes on just one side. When looking at the fabric, the striped side would be the “right” side…but when sewn into the jacket the stripes would face the body.
So, when looking at Alpha the nicest looking side (often the side with most fluffiness) is typically the right side. If you are lining a coat, that nicer side would face the body
But, if you are making a stand alone garment such as a hat, hoodie or ultralight jacket you might want the nicer side to face out…just because it looks better.
It does not appear to make much difference in warmth or function so do what pleases you the most!
When you order from Discovery Fabrics we typically ship with the Alpha fabric folded with the right side facing in.
Yes, you can. Alpha and Alpha Direct are made with Polyester. So, you just need to use a dye for synthetic fabrics. It is recommended to use a fixative to keep the dye from fading. We personally have just tried dyeing samples, but members of our Facebook discussion group have shown examples of garments they have dyed quite successfully. There is a Youtube video where we discuss dyeing Alpha.
A hoodie is a good idea for beginner sewist. There are many good patterns. We recommend the Alpha Raglan Hoodie by Learn MYOG. We also like the Marie Claude by Jalie Patterns. There are lots more, we recommend asking in our Facebook Group, which just happens to be the best one ever. But I digress...
Sewing Alpha is not difficult, and despite it looking thin it is easy to add a zipper. For the lightest weights, make sure you use a coil zipper no larger (width) than 4.5mm. Lucky for you, we have those!
Several well know outerwear brands have sold zipper Alpha Direct jackets for upwards of $200. The effort to make your own can really pay off, especially if you don't fit into standard sizes, or have a long torso or arms.
Pants are mainly for lounging, or wearing in a sleeping bag when camping. There can be fairly see-through and I wouldn't go shopping in them. You might...and I won't judge. But still.
Once again, Learn MYOG has a pretty cool pattern for Camp Pants made with Alpha Direct. We did a video showing this pattern on our Youtube channel. We do a lot of videos, so hope you will subscribe!
Once of my favorite hats to wear under a cycling helmet is made with Alpha Direct.
Discovery Fabrics developed a pattern for a beanie hat that is intended to use with stretch fabrics such as Polartec Power Stretch or Polartec Power Grid. I sized up 2 sizes and added 1" of length to the hem to accomodate for the lack of stretch in Alpha Direct, and was pretty happy with the fit.
I don't see a lot of companies making Alpha Direct vests but you are missing out on an amazing way to keep your core warm without overheating by wearing a vest. I like simple designs, and have used Fold Over Elastic (also know as FOE) instead of hemming the bottom and cuffs, for a very easy make!
Ask for Advice!
Where can you get help choosing a fabric?
We love to help, which is why we have a Facebook Group. We have made many garments with this fabulous fabric. If you ask in our group, be specific about where you are going (climate), what you will be using it for. We will try to make suggestions that will fit your need. We are always happy to chat in the group, where others can learn from the questions you ask! Our Facebook group is Sew Inspired by Discovery Fabrics. Please join us!
We all know that our skin does not breathe air in and out…so what are we talking about when we say something is breathable?
Breathability refers to the process of moisture vapour (sweat) moving through a fabric to the outside. It’s a fabric’s ability to maintain the balance between the moisture contained in the fabric itself and the air around it. Fabrics that constantly absorb but don’t release humidity are non-breathable.
The reason moisture management is crucial for breathability is because evaporation assists the body to cool.
An example of this is a very heavy cotton knit sweatshirt. It would be very uncomfortable to go running on a hot day without overheating even though many believe cotton to be a breathable fabric.
The answer may surprise you!
It is a common misconception that all Polyester is non breathable. In fact, some of the most breathable, moisture-wicking fabrics are in fact polyester! How can this be?
PET material, another name for Polyester in its raw form is not breathable at all. But Polyester fabric can be constructed in a way that allows breathability.
In the past decade new manufacturing techniques have designed knit and woven fabrics to effectively move moisture along the yarn and through the fabric to allow moisture to escape. Evaporation is a result of air contacting those moist fibers, which not only keeps you dryer, but also cooler. So, when air and moisture move freely it makes the fabric breathable.
The two factors that most affect comfort levels are climate (temperature )and activity of the wearer. We don’t notice how breathable our clothing is when we are sitting around watching TV…but try running on a hot day and you’ll soon discover if your shirt is breathable!
If you love details and want to read about standard testing methods, the Hohenstein test is explained.
Nylon is a synthetic material made from polymers, which allows air to pass through its fibers. However, along with other synthetic fabrics it must be constructed (knit or woven)to enhance breathability.
Regardless of fabric content it is the thickness and mechanical construction of the fabric that most affects breathability.
If Nylon is not knit to enhance breathability it will be hot and inefficient!
But, the same is true with any fabric, even linen or cotton.
A light, loosely woven natural fabric would be the hot-weather choice of those who are not highly active. But you would not find anyone wearing heavy, densely knit cotton in the same weather or they would overheat quickly!
Here's a breakdown of common fabrics, each with its own features. Keep in mind that these characteristics can vary within each fabric type, and manufacturers may blend fabrics or apply finishes to alter their performance.
Cotton comes in various types and is commonly used for summer clothing that isn't designed for active use. As discussed earlier, even natural fabrics must have a light, looser construction to be comfortable in heat. If you were to wear a heavy cotton knit shirt and start to exercise, you would soon overheat. A lightweight loose cotton shirt would be cooler, but would retain sweat and take a long time to dry. So once again, we must understand that the construction and weight of the garment is key to how breathable it is.
Advantages: Soft, durable, versatile, and easy to care for. Perfect for warm weather when activity level is low
Disadvantages: Absorbs moisture instead of wicking it away, making it less suitable for sweating. Lacks Sun Protection in lighter weights.
These synthetic materials are often found in activewear.
Advantages: Moisture-wicking, quick-drying, and resistant to pilling and abrasion. Can be highly sun protective depending on style as well as highly breathable IF specially designed for that purpose. Wrinkle-resistant.
Disadvantages: can retain odors (exceptions are high performance knits with effective antimicrobial treatments such as Chitosan or Silver)
Rayon, also known as viscose or lyocell, is a processed plant-based fabric that is often blended with other materials.
Advantages: Silky feel, moderate breathability, drapes nicely, and dries quickly.
Disadvantages: Doesn't wick moisture as well as synthetics, prone to wrinkles, and many rayon fabrics require dry cleaning.
Derived from flax plants, linen is popular for casual summer wear.
Advantages: Very durable, easy to care for, and typically offers excellent breathability due to its large fibers and open weaves.
Disadvantages: Absorbs moisture like cotton, wrinkles easily, and not ideal for sweating.
Silk is commonly used in underwear and upscale casual wear.
Advantages: Luxuriously soft, lightweight, and breathable.
Disadvantages: Fragile, not great at wicking moisture, retains odors, and usually requires hand washing.
Although often used in winter wear, merino wool can be suitable for summer clothing. Modern versions are soft compared to older wool types.
Advantages: Fairly breathable and available in lightweight styles for summer wear; doesn't hold odors like synthetics.
Disadvantages: Less durable than cotton, nylon, and polyester fabrics.
NOTE: Polartec Power Wool offers all the advantages of 100% Merino but is more durable and dries faster.
There is much misinformation on the internet about breathable fabric.
Many people believe that only natural fabrics are breathable, and that polyester is hot and uncomfortable.
The truth is this...it depends! Natural fabrics are lovely and breathable when they are loosely woven or knit. But, when a person is active or sweating, Cotton or Linen can be very uncomfortable as it does not dry quickly. Also, loosely knit fabrics are not very sun protective, as the harmful rays can get through the openings of the weave.
Polyesters, especially poorly designed fabrics, can be hot and sticky...
However, well designed polyester or nylon knits can enhance moisture movement, dry faster, and offer high sun protection. Many also boast superior antimicrobial treatments for odor control.
Make an educated choice based on what you intend to be doing while wearing the garments you make.
If you are doing sedentary activities and just want to stay cool, a number of choices are available to you.
If you need added Sun Protection, we recommend
For strenuous activities where you will be sweating and potentially overheating we recommend
Polartec Delta (summertime only, not for winter because it is also a Cooling Fabric)
For all season breathability, we especially love Polartec Power Wool Silkweight.
Ask for Advice!
There are many considerations when choosing breathable fabric. We love to help, which is why we have a Facebook Group. If you ask in our group, be specific about your needs. We will try to make suggestions that will help you make a great choice. We are always happy to chat in the group, where others can learn from the answers! Our Facebook group is Sew Inspired by Discovery Fabrics. Join us!
In an era where skin protection is paramount, the emergence of fabrics embedded with Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) has revolutionized the way we safeguard our family against harmful sun rays. From beachgoers to outdoor enthusiasts, the allure of UPF-treated fabrics lies in their ability to offer an additional layer of defense against the sun's damaging effects. But what exactly is UPF, how does it work, and why should you consider incorporating it into your wardrobe? In this article, we will explain how to choose the best fabric for sun protection.
Wearing sun protective clothing offers numerous benefits for maintaining skin health and preventing sun damage. These specially designed fabrics provide an extra layer of defense against harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays, shielding the skin from potential sunburns, premature aging, and even skin cancer. Unlike sunscreen, which requires reapplication, sun protective clothing offers consistent protection throughout the day, even when wet. Additionally, it reduces the need for applying and reapplying sunscreen, minimizing the risk of skin irritation and allergic reactions. Sun protective fabrics come in many weights and styles. By incorporating sun protective features in your fabric choices, you can enjoy outdoor activities with peace of mind, knowing that your skin is well-protected from the sun's harmful rays.
What is UPF?
UPF, short for Ultraviolet Protection Factor, measures the amount of ultraviolet (UV) radiation that penetrates a fabric and reaches the skin. Similar to SPF (Sun Protection Factor), which is commonly associated with sunscreens, UPF indicates the level of protection against both UVA and UVB rays provided by the fabric. However, unlike SPF, which primarily focuses on protection against sunburn (UVB rays), UPF accounts for both UVB and UVA radiation, offering comprehensive shielding against long-term skin damage and premature aging.
UPF Treatments:
UPF treatments involve incorporating UV-absorbing or UV-blocking agents into the fabric during manufacturing. These treatments can vary, ranging from chemical additives to physical alterations in the fabric structure. Chemical treatments typically involve adding UV-absorbing compounds, while physical alterations may include tighter weaves or denser fibers to create a barrier against UV penetration. Many technical fabrics use a combination of both.
Natural vs. Synthetic Fabrics:
When it comes to inherent UPF protection, natural and synthetic fabrics exhibit different characteristics.
Natural fabrics like cotton, linen, and wool often provide a small degree of UPF protection due to their dense fiber structure. However, this protection may vary depending on factors such as fabric weight, weave tightness, and color. On the other hand, synthetic fabrics like polyester, nylon, and spandex can be engineered to offer higher UPF ratings through specialized treatments and fiber blends.
Durability of UPF Treatment:
The longevity of UPF treatment in fabric depends on various factors, including the quality of treatment, fabric care practices, and exposure to environmental elements. Generally, UPF-treated fabrics can maintain their sun-protective properties through multiple washes and prolonged use, especially if handled according to manufacturer guidelines. However, over time, repeated washing, exposure to chemicals, and wear and tear may gradually diminish the effectiveness of UPF treatments. This is one reason why a fabric that is knit or woven to resist the suns rays will do its job more effectively over time.
UPF in Light vs. Dark Colors:
Contrary to popular belief, the color of the fabric does not necessarily dictate its UPF rating. It does help somewhat. While darker colors may absorb more UV radiation than lighter colors, the UPF protection offered by a fabric is primarily determined by its construction and treatment rather than its hue. Therefore, whether opting for light or dark colors, selecting UPF-treated fabrics is key to ensuring adequate sun protection.
Although UPF and SPF serve similar purposes—protecting against UV radiation—they differ in their application and measurement.
SPF primarily applies to sunscreen products and indicates the level of protection against sunburn caused by UVB rays.
In contrast, UPF pertains to fabrics and denotes the fabric's ability to block both UVA and UVB rays from reaching the skin. While SPF requires reapplication, UPF provides continuous protection as long as the fabric is worn.
Shirt shown is an example of a stretch woven lightweight fabric called Sunpro, which has 50+ UPF rating.
UPF 50+ is the maximum UPF rating achievable and it denotes that only up to 2% (or 1/50th) of UV radiation can penetrate fabrics.
The best fabric for sun protection should have a minimum of 40 UPF in our opinion.
Shown here are a pair of leggings made with Chitosante Extreme, which is both antimicrobial as well as highly sun protective. This is an example of a good sun protective fabric.
Best Fabrics for Sun Protection
Lightweight Sun Lite Jersey boasts great 4-way stretch and a UPF rating of +50 This is a great fabric for all your summer activities. Perfect for tops, arm sleeves, tanks and light dresses. Fabric is smooth and soft and slightly cool to the touch.
Power Dry comes in dozens of styles. It is a superior moisture-wicking base layer. Check the Specs and Features tab of the webpage to see the UPF rating for each style. We classify Power Dry styles as Lightweight or Midweight.
Delta is a cooling fabric that utilizes the body's natural cooling process - sweat. Some styles offer high UPF ratings. It is wonderful for summer cycling, running or hiking or activities where you will be sweating.
Breathe Tek Athletic is our signature compressive athletic fabric. It's super soft interlock knit has been hand sanded to create a velvety feel. The fabric offers good compression, is squat proof with a UPF rating of 50+ An extremely versatile base, it can be used for both top and bottom weight garments a favorite for leggings, shorts and dresses!
A fast-drying, 4-way stretch with UPF 50+ sun protection! It's resistant to pilling and has good shape retention.This is such a versatile fabric that it has been made into everything from leggings and dresses to tops and hats. Check out our Clearance and Deadstock page to see discontinued prints.
This silky smooth fabric breathes well, is snag resistant and manages moisture efficiently so you feel drier. As you sweat, the moisture cools as it releases in a controlled fashion, keeping you 20%-30% cooler than ambient temperature.
Swim fabric is perfect for making rash guards and beachwear. It has 50+ UPF. While many fabric stores will recommend swim for sun shirts, we know it can be too hot when temperatures are high if you are not in the water. For those situations we recommend Sun Lite Jersey, Delta or Power Dry in high UPF styles.
Our swim material uses Lycra Xtra Life®, a top quality spandex developed for the swim industry that is 10-15% more resistant to chlorine than regular spandex ensuring your swim suit will last. Note: chlorine resistant does not mean fade resistant.
Sunpro is one of the many styles of Stretch Woven we offer. It was just enough stretch to add ease of movement. Perfect for long sleeve button-up travel shirts or other woven tops. For a super lightweight dress pant, choose the solid darker colors as they are more opaque
There are so many considerations when choosing the best fabric for sun protection such as whether you will be very physically active, the overall temperature, and whether you will be in the water. We love to help, which is why we hlove our friendly Facebook Group. When you ask a question in this discussion group, be specific about what you are making and for which activity. We will try to make suggestions that will fit your project and in many cases other members will share photos and advice. We are always happy to chat in the group, where everyone can learn from the answers! Our Facebook group is Sew Inspired by Discovery Fabrics. Join us!
Conclusion:
Fabric with UPF presents a compelling solution for individuals seeking reliable sun protection without compromising style or comfort. Whether lounging on the beach or engaging in outdoor activities, investing in UPF-treated fabrics offers peace of mind and long-term benefits for skin health.
By understanding the intricacies of UPF treatments, comparing natural and synthetic fabrics, and recognizing the distinction between UPF and SPF, you can make informed decisions to choose the best fabric for sun protection which will help shield your family from the sun's harmful rays while embracing the great outdoors
Traveling involves a myriad of decisions, from selecting destinations to planning itineraries. Among these considerations is choosing the right clothing, particularly fabrics that offer comfort, durability, and versatility. Whether you're embarking on a tropical getaway or a rugged outdoor adventure, your choice of travel fabric can significantly impact your travel experience. This guide explores the factors to consider when selecting travel fabrics, essential items to pack, and our recommendations of fabrics that will be as functional as possible.
Climate and Temperature
The climate and temperature of your destination play a crucial role in determining the most suitable fabrics for your travel wardrobe. For hot and humid climates, lightweight breathable fabrics are essential to keep you cool and comfortable. In contrast, colder destinations call for insulating and moisture-wicking materials to retain warmth and prevent moisture buildup.
Activities and Terrain
Consider the activities you'll be engaging in during your trip. If you're embarking on outdoor adventures such as hiking or camping, opt for fabrics that offer durability, flexibility, and weather resistance. For urban exploration or leisurely strolls, prioritize fabrics that strike a balance between style and functionality.
Luggage Restrictions
If you're traveling with only carry-on luggage, it's essential to pack strategically and prioritize versatile clothing items. Choose fabrics that are lightweight, wrinkle-resistant, and easily compressible to maximize space and minimize the need for extensive packing.
If you are lounging in the shade or taking it easy, natural fabrics such as Bamboo Cotton Jersey and Bamboo Stretch Jersey are lovely and make excellent tops. But even if you are enjoying a relaxing day, you may want to consider some of the high performance travel fabrics mentioned below. Some offer additional benefits such as sun protection. Chitosante Interlock Jersey is one example.
If you are doing more strenuous activities such as hiking, you’ll want the benefits of highly technical synthetic fabrics that are lightweight and dry fast. Additionally, you may want to choose styles that offer both sun protection and an antimicrobial treatment, so your clothes stay fresher. One of the best fast-drying fabrics is Polartec Power Dry. The lightweight styles are cool and not only keep you dryer, but also dry extremely fast after washing, so you can take fewer garments. Look for styles of Power Dry that have OR in the style number, as this indicates they are treated with Odor Resist, a highly effective, eco-friendly antimicrobial treatment. Also check for styles that offer high UPF sun protection. This is noted in the Specs and Features tab of each product page.
Don’t forget that even in warm climates you may need some long sleeve shirts for added warmth in cooler evenings, and for times when you may be in air-conditioned rooms. Unexpected weather changes can occur even in warm climates so it’s important to be prepared. Also, having a warmer lightweight layer when on a plane is helpful. Merino Wool is a great choice. It’s naturally antimicrobial and has a high warmth-to-weight ratio. Polartec Power Wool offers the benefits of Merino, with some added performance features. It dries much faster and is more durable. We recommend Power Wool Silkweight as it packs easily and is perfect year round in any climate
If you are sensitive to the sun, or if you plan on being in the sun for extended periods you need to consider having a fabric that will protect you from burning. You can choose select styles of Polartec Power Dry or Polartec Delta that have high UPF protection. This will be indicated in the Specs and Features tab on those pages. Or choose the lovely Sun Lite Jersey, which offers min 50 UPF. Another choice for lightweight, sun protective tops is Chitosante Jersey which in addition to being highly sun protective also offers the antimicrobial benefit of Chitosan, an eco-friendly treatment that utilizes ocean biomass.
The trick to staying cool is combining a lightweight fabric that integrates evaporative cooling technology which uses your own sweat to keep you cool. If you are not sweating a lot, then simply wear any of the fabrics above in the lightest weights. But if you are prone to sweating then use that to your advantage to stay cool. Polartec Delta is a unique fabric that combines the moisture-wicking qualities of Power Dry with a natural Lyocell outer layer, to keep you dry but trigger slow, cooling natural evaporation. Delta is perfect for cycling, pickleball, tennis, running or any high aerobic activity. It enhances the body’s ability to stay cool and offers reduced friction against the skin.
Opt for wrinkle-resistant Stretch Woven for a polished look that transitions seamlessly from day to night. This is a wonderful slightly stretchy travel fabric which adds a small amount of ease making the garment more comfortable with movement, but not so much that it changes the size you make when the pattern calls for non-stretch woven. In addition, the water-repellency makes it less prone to stains which is important when travelling, as the garment stays cleaner. Water repellency does not affect the breathability of the shirt!
For a lightweight shirt, we recommend Sunpro Stretch Woven. In addition to the benefits mentioned, it is also highly sun protective, with minimum 50 UPF!
Depending on activity, there are a couple of best choices. For hiking, consider Adventure styles of Stretch Woven. They are slightly heavier, but still fine for summer. Adventure Stretch Woven offers a more durable fabric that is perfect for cargo pants or shorts but can also be used for dressier styles. This fabric is certainly not limited to pants, but it is a staff favorite for hiking or travel pants. For a lighter weight, consider Sunpro Stretch Woven. The Sunpro prints, while great for shirts or lined dresses are not completely opaque. So for pants you might want to choose a darker color solid which is not see-through.
Surfer Styles of Stretch Woven are slightly heavier than Sunpro, and make fabulous board shorts, skirts as well as lightweight pants.
Adventure, Sunpro and Surfer are all styles of Stretch Woven.
You can also choose a natural knit such as Bamboo French Terry or lighter weight Bamboo Stretch Jersey for shorts. If you prefer a yoga-style, you'll want a moisture-wicking athletic fabric such as Yoga Stretch, Solar Stretch or Breathe Tek.
Solar Stretch and Breathe Tek both offer 50+ UPF protection.
While leggings and warm weather don’t always go together, I still prefer to take a pair that I can wear during the plane trip, and for cool or rainy days. Solar Stretch and Breathe Tek athletic are wonderful, and so soft and comfy to wear. Yoga Stretch is also a staff favorite. It has a cottony feel and is moisture-wicking.
Depending on pattern requirements, you may wish to use Bamboo Stretch Jersey for tank dresses, or Chitosante Interlock Jersey. Both are breathable, however Chitosante will dry faster. Surfer Stretch Woven is a great choice for beach wrap skirts as well as dress patterns that recommend a woven fabric.
Lightweight Merino Wool or Silkweight Power Wool are both a great choice for a pullover. For a dressy but lightweight cardigan natural Micro Modal Jersey Sweater Knit is luxurious, soft, and warm. Both are perfect for layering.
One sweater fabric that can’t be ignored is Polartec Alpha Direct. This is a highly technical ultralight fabric that needs to be seen to be believed (or worn to be appreciated)! It was developed for the military, and is the mainstay of any serious backpacker’s gear it is ridiculously light and unbelievably warm. Whether you make a hoodie, a sweater or a jacket this is one travel fabric you can’t do without.
Susan Low, an avid sewist and gear expert said the following about Alpha Direct…
“While Alpha Direct is delightfully warm, it isn’t stifling. It allows your body to regulate the heat so you’re not going to find yourself desperately needing to peel off the layers like you might with a different fabric. I’ve never regretted having an Alpha Direct layer available and it packs very small compared to other fabrics that could provide similar thermal benefits.”
Chlorine-resistant fabric is recommended. Special chlorine-resistant Lycra helps retain shape and lasts much longer than other swim fabrics.
If you are sensitive to the sun or will be snorkeling, you may also want to consider a sun hoodie. For those you can either use swim fabric, or Sun Lite Jersey.
There are many fabrics suitable for underwear, and many are perfect for travel. For this reason we offer a Panty Pack and a Boxer Pack which have a selection of both natural as well as synthetic fabrics. Micro Modal Jersey is a soft luxurious fabric used by a famous menswear brand. Bamboo Stretch Jersey is also a lovely choice. However, for the fastest drying, you can’t beat Yoga Lining for panties. It is both incredibly light as well as moisture wicking and breathable. So is Polartec Power Stretch Jersey in the lightest weights.
Most people choose to buy ready-to-wear socks as opposed to making their own, at least for warm weather travel. We like moisture-wicking synthetic blends for comfort. Cotton can also be comfortable but as it retains moisture, it can cause friction as well as odor issues.
When choosing a hat, always select one with a wide brim to shield your eyes from the sun.
We always recommend a highly water wind repellent shell, such as Polartec Neoshell or Polartec Power Shield Pro. They take little room to pack in your carry-on. These shells are both wind and water repellent. You will stay dry and comfortable even in the pouring rain. Both styles are highly breathable. For warmth, rely on your base and mid layers.
Cooling towels
A great way to stay cool is with a cooling towel. Cooling Microfiber fabric is highly specialized. You simply wet it, wring it out and “snap” it to activate the moisture molecules. They begin the evaporation process causing the towel to get cold. When worn around the neck, it offers instant relief. Once you feel the towel getting warmer from your body heat, simply remove it, snap it again, and place it back around the neck. It’s quite amazing and completely natural! Towels are very easy to sew using this fabric. You can make several from one yard of fabric, and the towels can easily be hemmed using a straight stitch machine. If you care to know more about the Microfiber Cooling Towel fabric, watch it on our Youtube channel (and don't forget to subscribe!)
Towels
For many years we manufactured Swim and Travel Towels which you can purchase ready made. Those of you who sew can make your own as we sell the fabric by the yard. You can choose from either Midweight Quick Wick or Lightweight Quick Wick
The advantages of such a lightweight travel towel are
Additional Considerations for Travel Clothing
Sun Protection
When traveling to sunny destinations, prioritize clothing with UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) ratings to shield your skin from harmful UV rays. Look for fabrics treated with UV-blocking agents or naturally sun-protective materials like tightly woven cotton or synthetic blends.
Water Repellency
For outdoor adventures or rainy climates, consider clothing treated with water-repellent finishes or constructed from hydrophobic fabrics like nylon or polyester. These garments will keep you dry and comfortable even in wet conditions.
Windproofing
If you'll be traveling to windy destinations or engaging in activities exposed to strong gusts, invest in windproof outer layers made from tightly woven fabrics like polyester or specialized wind-blocking materials. These garments provide an additional barrier against chilly winds.
For travel fabric suitable for cooler climates refer to our Blog Layering 101 or ask in our Facebook discussion group.
Ask for Advice!
There are so many personal considerations when choosing the right fabrics for travel. Choosing appropriate travel clothes depends on many factors. We love to help, which is why we have a Facebook Group. If you ask in our group, be specific about where you are going (climate), what you will be doing and if you plan on packing with carry-on only. We will try to make suggestions that will fit your trip. We are always happy to chat in the group, where others can learn from the answers! Our Facebook group is Sew Inspired by Discovery Fabrics. Join us!
Shortlisting Clothing Items for Carry-On Luggage
When packing with only carry-on luggage, prioritize versatile clothing items that can be mixed and matched to create multiple outfits. Choose fabrics that are lightweight, wrinkle-resistant, and easily layerable to adapt to changing weather conditions. Consider multi-functional garments like convertible pants or reversible jackets to maximize space without sacrificing style or functionality.
In conclusion, selecting the best fabrics for travel involves considering the climate, activities, and luggage restrictions of your destination. Whether you prefer natural fabrics for their breathability and timeless appeal or synthetic fabrics for their durability and performance features, there are options to suit every traveler's needs. By packing strategically and prioritizing versatile clothing items, you can embark on your adventures with confidence and comfort, ready to explore the world in style.
Cooling fabrics are becoming more popular than ever in ready-to-wear fashion. The question is, how do these fabrics work? These fabrics are designed to both enhance the body’s evaporative cooling mechanism (sweating) and to act as wearable “swamp coolers”. Sounds good, doesn’t it?!
Our bodies sweat to release excess heat. When we are hot enough that we have sweat beading on our skin, the sweat (water) molecules that are closest to the surface with the highest kinetic energy are able to break their hydrogen bonds and become water vapour. Breaking the bond releases heat so the vapour molecule is cooler than the liquid molecule. For a more detailed explanation, check out this video link by Khan Academy: https://youtu.be/_eEONOJHnEs
The ”swamp cooler” concept is that warmer and dryer air that passes over something cooler and damper will become cooler. Ancient Egyptians used damp reed matts or clay pots filled with water in locations where the hot dry breezes would blow over them, resulting in cooler breezes on the other side. The cooler water uses the energy from the warmer air to help it turn from a liquid to a vapor (evaporation). As we know, the process of evaporation releases heat and therefore the air is now cooler than the air that has not passed over the swamp cooler.
Cooling fabrics work when they are damp, either through perspiration or intentionally wetting prior to use. Once wet, they retain moisture (they are not fast drying) so that the ambient air passing over the damp fabric becomes cooler as the water molecules evaporate. The greatest temperature difference occurs when the ambient air is warm and dry. While there is still some cooling effect in warm and humid environments, it is less than in dryer climates.
Our Cooling Microfiber is used to make cooling towels. When worn around one’s neck, the cooling effect is very noticeable and welcome on a hot summer’s day!
HyperKewl™ is an absorbent layer that works much the same way as Cooling Microfiber and is intended to be sandwiched between a breathable outer fabric and waterproof fabric lining. This allows the wearer to stay dryer.
Polartec® Delta™ and Coolfab Jersey are ideal fabrics for making summer tops for both activewear and leisure. You can either dampen your garment prior to wearing it or simply get hot and sweaty and then notice how the air above your shirt will not feel as hot as the air all around you. It should be noted that when making tops from Delta and Coolfab, they should have a relaxed fit so that air can move freely over and under them for maximum evaporative effect. Shirt in photo on the right is Polartec Delta style 6087OR (white no longer available).
To have the best mittens for cold weather, this feature is a key one for me. It allows the mitt to fit easily over my jacket sleeve (even the puffiest of coats) to provide an overlapping layer of weather protection over my forearms and wrists. Keeping wrists warm is critical as they have no insulation of their own and blood vessels are close to the surface. When our brains sense our wrists are getting cold, survival mode kicks in and less warm blood is circulated to our extremities, which contributes to cold hands. To keep cold air (or snow) from entering the end of the gauntlet, cord locks easily snug up the shock cord. I can also cinch up the wrist area with the webbing and slider.
A wide and long gauntlet goes a long way to keep hands warm!
The hand section is large enough that my hand and fingers are not constricted but not so large that I am trying to 'heat' extra space. The side band construction helps achieve this comfortable fit. This is crucial in buying or making the best mittens for cold weather.
It's not always easy to find, but this is one feature I love. The biggest advantage of this to me is that it reduces hand fatigue that can occur when you have to work too hard against the loft of the insulation to let your hand curve naturally or when you are doing an activity that requires you to grip something for a period of time (handlebar, shovel, ski pole for example).
A slight curve to the mitt is much more comfortable to wear and reduces hand fatigue.
I love this feature as well. While there is some insulation on the palm side, it is thinner than on the back of the hand. The palm side insulation also feels denser. The benefit of this is that although it is thin, it blocks heat/cold transfer well. The lofty back side is created with batting-style insulation and there is a PrimaLoft® tag confirming the brand. Can’t say for sure the specific style of PrimaLoft, but my educated guess is there are multiple layers because of its thickness.
In the hand area, there is a thin brushed fabric/fleece while the gauntlet section is lined with a light nylon (for ease in sliding over jacket sleeves). Polartec Fleece Lining is a good choice for the hand area (fleece side against your skin). Moisture-wicking and fast drying is important to keep dampness from sweat at bay, especially if you are camping or don't have a good method for drying out your mitts after wear.
The benefit of making your own mittens for cold weather is that you can choose where you put the insulation, and custom design for your needs, from fabric to design.
An inside that is soft and cozy for the hands and slideseasily over jacket sleeves
As a disclaimer, I am an adult and I don't wear these mitts to dig around in gravely snow:) The outer fabric of my mitts is a very lightweight ripstop nylon and while I have not babied these mitts in the slightest, I have not used them for activities where they were subject to abrasive surfaces or conditions. The more pliable the fabric, the less hand fatigue. In other words, try to avoid very stiff shell fabrics as we are adding thickness/warmth with our insulation and too thick an outer fabric, will impact how easy it is to use your hands.
Wristlets! Known by many other names, wristlets are a fingerless glove designed to keep the wearer's wrist protected and warm and are a great addition if your hands are always cold. If your brain senses your wrists are getting cold, it reduces blood flow to your hands and your hands will be much harder to stay warm.
A couple of suggestions: Choose a cozy fabric with a smooth surface such as Polartec Power Stretch or Northern Lite so your mitts and long-sleeves slide overtop easily. They should fit closely but should not constrict. Add a pocket on the inside of the wrist for a hand warmer - more convenient than bunched up in your palm!
While there are likely hundreds of fabric combinations to try, here are a few to consider for making the best mittens for cold weather.
When making your own mittens for cold weather, these technical shell fabrics provide protection from the elements. Stretch is not an important factor in the shell, so if choosing Polartec Neoshell both stretch and non-stretch styles are fine.
When choosing or making the best mittens for cold weather, the lining must serve the purpose of keeping your hands dry. Therefore it should be moisture-wicking. It also should add some warmth, but the most warmth will come from the insulation layer.
Mitten PacksWe recommend Primaloft Gold when available, as well as Primaloft Silver as the best runner up to Gold. If you are making mittens for chilly but not extreme cold, you can use other lofty fabrics to insulate, such as Polartec High Loft. It is technically an outerwear fabric but does work well for many winter climates. We often include High Loft as the insulating layer in our Mitten Packs, which are intended for those learning to make mittens.
This blog deals mainly with what to look for when buying mittens. As a group of sewing enthusiasts, we typically focus on making our own, especially when you can't find what you are looking for. We are here to help!
We love to help with fabric choices, which is why we have a Facebook Group. If you ask in our group, be specific about where you live (climate), what you will be using the mittens for. We will try to make suggestions will help with your project. We prefer questions be asked in the group where others can learn from the questions asked as well. Our Facebook group is Sew Inspired by Discovery Fabrics. Please join us!
Leggings are a favourite of many as they can be so versatile. From workout to warmth, casual to dressy, choosing the right fabric for your purpose can sometimes be overwhelming. What you choose for ice skating in cold weather is much different than what one might choose for summer running, or for comfortable all season travel. Here are a few considerations to ponder when choosing you the best fabric for leggings, tights or Long Johns (long underwear).
The best fabric for leggings or tights must first of all be a stretch knit fabric. You cannot use a woven fabric for leggings…even a woven with stretch. A Stretch Woven is great for other types of pants, even fairly snug pants. But leggings are usually much smaller than the body, and the fabric must stretch significantly in order to go over the hips and move with the body. So let’s cover some of the basic requirements. And don’t worry…we will link to some of our best recommendations below!
First and foremost, check the amount of stretch your pattern requires. Leggings are almost always form fitting and require Negative Ease. This means the finished garment will be smaller than your body measurements, as opposed Positive Ease in other types of clothing where the garment measurements are larger than the body measurements.
It is possible to use a fabric with a little less stretch than what is called for, but this usually means sizing up and does require some trial and error to get the perfect fit. That’s a good reason to stick to fabric recommendations when possible!
Fabric recovery refers to its ability to return to the same shape it started, after being stretched. Leggings bag in the knees usually because the fabric does not have good recovery,even though it may have enough stretch. High quality athletic fabrics should always remain smooth even after bending your legs. A fabric's ability to recover is determined by its content, weight and knit construction. Cotton typically has poor recovery, and requires a high lycra mix. Even then it is not the best fabric for leggings when compared to more high performance synthetic fabrics. Very lightweight fabrics often don't have enough spandex yarn weight to recover well. Even when they do, it’s easy to see right through the fabric when stretched. Very lightweight knits may not be the best fabric for leggings as they are not opaque, but may be suitable for wearing under tunics or dresses. Squat Proof is a term often used to describe a legging fabric that is opaque and won't show through when one is bending over. The best fabric for leggings and other snug fitting athletic garments should have all of these qualities.
Athletic leggings (for working out, running, yoga, etc) your best choices are synthetic fabrics such as Supplex nylon or soft polyester with a high spandex content. Supplex is not an actual fabric, it's a treatment done to nylon to make it feel more like cotton. An example of Supplex nylon that we carry is Yoga Stretch. The best fabric for leggings are polyester or nylon based. They are preferred as they are usually moisture wicking and quick drying.
Other features to consider:
Do you want a highly compressive athletic legging or a casual, comfortable legging for leisurewear. Do you want warm and snuggly or lightweight and cool to the touch? How about sun protection or durability? You may not get every feature in any one fabric, but often you can get what is most important to you by reviewing our Legging Fabrics Matrix pdf as well as the Specs and Features tab on each of our fabric's web page. Or, consider our Legging Pack as it contains cut yardage of four of our most popular legging fabrics! For example, Midweight Scubaluxe is very compressive, opaque, slick and cool to the touch while Yoga Stretch is somewhere between soft and durable, opaque, and matte lending itself to both workout or dressy pants. Breathe Tek Athletic is buttery soft, opaque and has a 50+ UPF rating. Northern Lite Athletic has a brushed back for a little extra warmth. Polartec Power Stretch Fleece Backed is cozy and warm. Polartec Windpro Stretch is similar to Power Stretch but has a Hardface water-repellent finish. Chitosante Extreme is a sun-protective athletic with eco-friendly antimicrobial made with seashells! There are so many choices available to customize your leggings. In the pdf document, we also included a few fabrics that are suitable for long underwear bottoms (a slightly looser fitting legging if you will) as the lines between a true legging and long johns can sometimes blur, especially during the colder months! Some of our recommendations for long underwear include Polartec Power Grid, Polartec Power Wool and RedHeat Jersey.
There are so many personal considerations when choosing the right fabrics for travel. Choosing appropriate travel clothes depends on many factors. We love to help, which is why we have a Facebook Group. If you ask in our group, be specific about where you are going (climate), what you will be doing and if you plan on packing with carry-on only. We will try to make suggestions that will fit your trip. We are always happy to chat in the group, where others can learn from the answers! Our Facebook group is Sew Inspired by Discovery Fabrics. Join us!
One of the best aspects of sewing for yourself is the freedom to create custom performance garments to handle specific environmental conditions. A quick walk through a high-quality outdoor retail store can provide hundreds of inspiring ideas that perhaps challenge conventional sewing techniques.
Many top brands create technical garments (tops, bottoms, vests) that combine different fabric types such as a highly wind resistant fabric on the front with a highly breathable fabric on the back. Combinations like this are ideal for high output aerobic activities on cool/cold days as they block the wind created by your own speed on the front while venting excess heat and moisture generated during activity on the back. By combining different technical fabrics within one garment, we can take the best features of each fabric and let them shine. The combination often makes an incredibly functional piece of outdoor clothing that is more useful than a garment created by a single fabric.
Here are some of our favourite brand name cycling, running, Nordic skiing garments along with some suggested Discovery Fabrics to create your own. While these are just a few suggestions to get you started there are many more possibilities, so get creative!
This Craft brand jacket combines a quilted front for warmth with wind and waterproof sleeves and lower front. The back of the jacket utilizes a polyester jersey back for enhanced breathability. To recreate this jacket using different fabric types consider Quilted Alpha or Sonora Quilted with Lightweight Windbloc 6627 or Lightweight Power Shield Pro 6631 or 6633 for sleeves/lower front and Power Stretch Jersey 9490 or Northern Lite Athletic for the back. |
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This cross country ski jacket by Swix offers similar design details to the jacket above by combining a light quilted insulated fabric in the upper portion with a lightweight stretchy softshell for the waist and lower arm fronts and stretch jersey for the back and arm backs. You can create a similar look using the fabric types noted above or you could use a Midweight Power Shield or Sherpa Windpro Stretch in place of the quilted fabric for a different (smooth) look. | |
These Patagonia pants combine a wind and water repellent fabric (blue) with a breathable stretchy tights fabric in the waist, side panels and back of leg (black) providing weather protection as well as ease of movement and enhanced breathability. Suggested fabric types include Lightweight Windbloc 6627, LW Power Shield Pro 6631 & 6633 combined with Northern Lite Athletic, Polartec Power Stretch Jersey 9490 or Polartec Power Stretch Fleece Backed 6421 | |
The SportHill Super XC pants offer similar design features to the Patagonia pants above by combining a midweight stretch knit softshell with a DWR finish (durable water repellent) on the front with a soft and stretchy wicking knit on the back. Fabrics noted in the Patagonia example will work well for these pants or you could create a cold weather version by using Polartec Windpro Stretch or Polartec Power Shield Midweight for the front with Polartec Power Stretch Fleece Backed for the backs. |
THE #1 MYTH
You probably know the saying that you lose most of your body heat through your head. But this statement is not completely true. It stems from a study apparently done by the US military in the 50's. Volunteers were dressed in arctic survival suits, but their heads were left bare…you guessed it, they lost the most body heat via their unprotected heads! So, while wearing a hat when outside in the cold is important, it’s not the only body part to pay attention to so read on.
HOW YOUR BODY LOSES HEAT
There are 4 ways to lose body heat:
And, when your body encounters cold temperatures through any of the methods above, it adapts by constricting blood vessels in the arms and legs, which reduces blood flow to the extremities. This in turn means that your extremities (hands, feet, arms, legs) are going to get colder as they don’t have as much warm blood pumping through them. This may seem counter-productive, but your body does this to keep heat where it's needed most - around your vital organs and brain.
So, knowing these things, we can dress to reduce the impact of a cold environment.
HERE'S HOW
Insulate against the cold. Fortunately, we do this instinctively! If we do it well, we can combat all 4 methods of heat loss and reduce the impact of blood flow restriction.
Tackling Conduction: If our layers are thick enough, we block heat loss by conduction as the coldness of the object can’t get to our warmth and pull it away. Think thin mitts on a freezing cold steering wheel – no good. Nice thick mitts on the same steering wheel will help keep hands toasty as the coldness of the wheel can't pass through the thick mitten as easily.
Blocking Convection: Adding a windproof layer, blocks heat loss by convection as the wind can’t get at our body heat to whisk it away.
Combating Radiation: By building up the clothing barrier (through layering) between our skin and the environment, we help block heat loss by radiation as the air pockets within the fabrics and between the layers trap our body heat. If you are prone to cold hands and feet, wearing wrist warmers and leg warmers, yes…80’s style leg warmers (!) are a great addition. Another tip for those with cold hands is to wear mitts, not gloves, and to make sure the cuff of your mitt is either snug and long enough to tuck well up under your coat sleeve or wide and long enough to easily glide over your coat sleeve ensuring that your wrist does not suffer from exposure because your jacket sleeve and mitt are mashed up and not overlapping. If you’re wearing wrist warmers, it’s great if the outer face of the fabric is smooth and a little slippery so that your sleeves and cuffs slide over easily (overlapping layers = greater insulation). Keeping your neck and face well covered will also go a long way towards staying warm, particularly in very cold conditions.
Fighting Evaporation: If we take care to wear fabrics that are moisture-wicking (especially if we know we will be generating a little heat through movement) we can combat heat loss by evaporation. Moisture wicking fabrics are created to move moisture from the inner surface of the fabric to the outer. Your moisture-wicking base layer, pulls the moisture off your skin. Moisture-wicking mid layers keep moving the moisture away from your body. Performance fabric manufacturers like Polartec®, are constantly striving to create even more efficient moisture-wicking quick-drying fabrics that keep the wearer warm, dry, comfortable and safe because their clothing doesn't stay damp leading to chills or worse, hypothermia, when they are being active in the cold.
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER
Here's an example, piece by piece, of dressing for a day of snowmobiling or dogsledding on -25°C day in dry conditions (not a damp cold). Clearly, this is an example for pretty darn cold conditions, but you get the idea. If you are in less cold, more damp, super windy but less cold, etc., you adjust your layers and overtime you have a pretty good idea of what to wear given the day's conditions.
Base Layers: Midweight Long Underwear Pants + Midweight Long Underwear Zip-T Longsleeve for moisture management.
Middle Insulating Layers: 100 Weight (or equivalent) Zip-T Longsleeve + WindPro Vest + 200 Weight (or equivalent) Fleece Jacket on top and 200 Weight (or equivalent) Fleece Pants to add a clothing barrier that will trap body heat and allow moisture vapour to pass through to combat heat loss by radiation and conduction.
Outer Layer: Windproof, Water/Snow Repellent, "Breathable" Parka with insulation that has a loft of about 2" + Bib-style Windproof, Water/Snow Repellent, Breathable Pants (uninsulated).
Extremities: Windproof, Water/Snow Repellent, Breathable Hat with Chin Strap + Aqua Shell Wrist Warmers + Gauntlet-Style Mitts (Windproof, Water/Snow Repellent Outer with about 2" insulation) + Liner Socks (to wick moisture) + Thick Wool Socks + Boots, Polar Buff® Neck Warmer.
Again, the perfect layering system is a personal choice tweaked over time as you learn what works for you and what doesn't in all kinds of cold weather but once you figure it out, you can enjoy the outdoors no matter what nature is throwing at you!
]]>The problem is that cotton and other absorbent fabricts don't dry out fast...they hold onto the moisture until it evaporates, often slowly. This is where the technical "moisture management" fabrics are more efficient. These fabrics are actually hydrophobic (do not attract moisture). Rather than absorb moisture, they pull it from the source using capillary action, and the water is then spread across their outer surface where it can easily evaporate. While it seems like they are absorbing water, they actually aren't. Good thing!
Some moisture-management fabrics such as Polartec Power Dry and Power Grid use a mechanical wicking technique. This means that small yarn is knit to larger yarn, thus causing the fabric to pull moisture. As it pulls the moisture it spreads to the surrounding surface. This patented technology is also used by Polartec on many of their Power Wool styles. Power Wool is soft merino, knitted to synthetic outer layer that moves moisture from the wool to the outer surface.
Other ways of enticing fabrics to "wick" is to use various treatments. Sometimes they work fairly well but most chemical treatments are temporary and wash out.
While faster drying fabrics were developed for sports, consider using them for everyday garments such as nighties, underwear, robes, and lightweight hoodies. Once you integrate function into your fashion choices, you'll be so much happier with your makes.
Whichever process you choose, its important to stay away from fabric softeners. Whether liquid or dryer-sheet form, they interfere with both types of wicking processes by smothering the fibers.
]]>We have some pretty cool machines here at Discovery Trekking. One of my favorites is the coverstitch. We have one coverstitch set up to apply binding, which we use on necklines and arms of shirts, nighties etc. Commercially, when binding a neckline its customary to bind it in a straight line, by sewing just one shoulder seam together, binding, then sewing the last shoulder seam together ensuring that you match the binding so it lines up nicely and looks professional. But, sometimes we bind in the round. So here's a short video from our Facebook Page showing how we do this.
If you are new to performance fabrics, you may wonder what all this talk on layering for warmth and comfort is all about and why it’s important. Here it is broken down and with fabric suggestions for each layer thrown in for good measure!
The Basics
When being active outdoors, one of the biggest decisions is “What to Wear”? The layering system consists of 3 layers: Base Layer, Middle (Insulating) Layer, and Outer Layer. The theory being that with these 3 layers, you can adjust your clothing as exertion and weather dictates, keeping you comfortable in just about any condition.
The Base Layer (Moisture Wicking)
The purpose of the base layer is to pull moisture off your skin (wick) and through the base layer toward the outermost layer where it can evaporate. This is important as skin that is damp chills more easily and in cool and cold conditions, this can lead to discomfort or hypothermia if not managed well. The best moisture-wicking fabrics are ones that wick well and dry quickly. Fabrics best for base layers are synthetics (polyester or nylon for example) or natural fibers (like merino wool or silk) or a blend of both with merino/polyester blends becoming increasingly popular. Avoid cotton as it absorbs moisture and is very slow to dry.
Within the base layer category, choice can be made for lightweight through to heavy/expedition-weight fabrics. What you choose depends on the conditions you expect to encounter and personal preference. Generally, the colder the conditions, the heavier your base layer can be keeping in mind that the primary purpose of the layer is to wick moisture away from your skin.
We carry a variety of fabrics that are suitable for base layers such as Polartec Power Dry, Polartec Power Grid, Polartec Power Wool, Quick Wick, and more! Search these fabrics by typing Base Layers into the search bar or click here.
The Middle (Insulating) Layer
As the name suggests, this is the layer(s) for pieces that will keep you warm. Fabrics accomplish this task by trapping your body heat within the fabric. In general, thicker fabrics = warmer layers, but the more efficient the fabric is, the more heat can be retained in a thinner layer so quality of fabric can be an important consideration. When considering a middle layer, you can have a range of options from lighter weight pieces for warmer conditions to thick and beefy layers for extreme cold, keeping in mind that as you move, you will warm up and will likely adjust your layers as the conditions and your activity level change.
As with base layers, there is a huge variety of materials that are suitable for the middle layer. We carry a wide selection of Polartec Fleeces (100 and 200 weight Classic and Microfleece, Power Stretch, Power Wool, Wind Pro Stretch, Wind Pro and Wind Bloc) as well as Polartec’s Alpha and Alpha Direct insulation. Alpha and Alpha Direct are intended to be used to line a jacket not for making a stand-along garment however, they have gained popularity with the ultralight backpacking crowd and these fabrics are now used to make both tops and bottoms. Due to the flexibility of the layering system, heavyweight/expedition-weight base layers can also serve as middle layers over a lightweight base layer. You can search our insulating fabrics by typing Insulation is the search bar or click here.
The Outer Layer / Shells (Protection from Rain, Wind and Snow)
The outer layer is your final shield against what nature is throwing at you. It should protect you from rain, wind and snow. Often, the outer layer is made from an uninsulated shell fabric as your insulation is taken care of with the middle layer(s). In days of old, this is where the layering system could break down due to shell jackets that didn’t allow moisture and warm air to escape. Thanks to the innovation of fabric technology, we now have a range of waterproof/water repellent breathable fabrics that can breathe, block wind and rain keeping the wearer far more comfortable than ever before, even during high output activities.
In most cases, these ‘shell’ fabrics are laminates with an outer polyester or nylon fabric that is treated with a durable water repellent (DWR) finish bonded to a sub-micron membrane layer that ‘breathes’. It’s possible to have a shell without DWR and these make excellent wind breakers for days when the wind is cold but the skies are clear.
Jackets made from shell fabrics are very versatile and can be worn over a light layer in the warm months and over base and middle layers during the winter.
We carry both Polartec NeoShell and Polartec Power Shield in a wide variety of styles (shells and soft shells) and colours as well as other shell fabrics such as GoreTex, HyVent, and Tek Crystal to name a few. You can search our outer/shell layer fabrics, as well as our soft shell fabrics, by typing Shells into the search bar or click here.
But what about Soft Shells?
While layering does provide the most flexibility when dressing for the weather/activity, there are times when a garment that 'does it all' fits the bill (like when you are out and about in the city). This is where soft shells shine. Garments made from soft shells offer some insulation and weather protection. A soft shell is the marriage of an insulating fabric bonded to a ‘softer’ shell fabric to create one ‘super fabric’. These fabrics provide insulation while also offering breathability, abrasion resistance, and protection from the elements. Polartec pioneered this technology and called it Power Shield. Depending on your activity and the weather, your Outer Layer could be a jacket made from any of the styles of Power Shield rather than a straight shell fabric. We carry several styles and colours of Power Shield that are searchable using the term Soft Shells (or clicking the link in the paragraph above).
The Final Word
With the myriad of options available for each layer, there is no right or wrong way to go about it as long as you pick appropriate fabrics and stay away from cotton!